My watch shows 8:45 PM. Looking ahead to endless-north of the Cantabrico Sea, I watched to my left, the sun setting behind the lavish green hills. Its rays staining, with a timid gold, the picturesque architecture of the ancient town of Mundaka. To my right, the most incredible full moon rose, in all its glory, from behind the Ogono mountain, a 283 metre high rock formation on the boundaries of Laga beach and Elantxobe village.

Scanning the horizon for a wave-in, I saw the first ‘lumps’ of the set of the day. The set that, hopefully, would also bring the ‘wave of day!’ My heartbeat accelerated when I checked beside me and found no one around, the only pressure one could feel was the 'staring' that always comes from the hundreds of spectators that certainly would be looking at your ride, amongst them, many of my ‘tour friends’ that travel and work with me around the world – some members of the Foster’s 45 –the elite top 45 surfers— plus local friends and media.

Mundaka is a fast, unforgiving, high-quality left. One good wave can make your entire session, as a matter of fact it can make your entire day! And so that one did it! Three to four pumps down the line on a “I’m not gonna make it/Yes I’m making it” section, release of the bottom/off the top turns, followed by the carved round house cut back, into another fast section, speed turns down the line and a close out re-entry! I’d had a lot to talk at the town’s many bars that night! I just hoped someone saw it! From there, I’d hit the “Tapas and Pinchos Tour!”

But Mundaka is not only surf. There is much more to this town and region than meets the eye! There is history, tradition, scenery, pride, loyalty, friendship, pleasure. There is culture! Lots of it! Welcome to the beauty of Euskal Herria – The Basque country, a place of many contrasts and uniqueness like no other in the world.

I first came to Mundaka in 1990 and immediately fell in love with the place. But wasn’t until 1999 that the Tour started to come here regularly to stage the Billabong Pro Mundaka. With the event, we built a strong and close relationship with the people and costums of this region, a relationship that continued from where another ASP/Basque event left off – the Pukas Zarautz Pro, to many, the best stop on the ASP Tour in the mid 80s to early 90s. Zarautz is just an hour down the coast from Mundaka. Back in the day, the event would coincide with its Basque Festival, bathing us all with its contagious happiness, harmony and love for life! I could write a book only on this event, so for sure one day we’ll talk more about in these Files, but now let me concentrate in the Mundaka area.

Historians highlight Mundaka as one of the most important places in the Bizkaia province as the town is the birthplace of Jaun Zuria, the first lord of Bizkaia. The name Mundaka is derived from Danish, because there is evidence that the Vikings visited around the year 900, making Mundaka the oldest of the Parish Assemblies of Bizkaia.

Legend tell us that in the beginning of 9th century, ships from Scotland arrived on these coasts. As they faced the crystal clear waters on the entrance of the river they shouted: “Munda Aqua.” Among those that disembarked, was the daughter of the king of Scotland, banished from her country for not confessing to her father she was expecting a baby. She gave birth to a baby boy with such white skin that they called him “Jaun Zuria” (Sir White). The people from Biscay later chose him to fight against the kingdom of Castilla, which was trying to conquer some of the Bizcay territory. They won the war, so the “Vizcainos” proclaimed him the first “Senor de Bizkaia”.

The streets forming Mundaka’s old quarter radiate from the harbour. This is where the noble past can be felt in its houses with their coats of arms, and in its medieval towers interspersed with the fishermen’s traditional houses, which are always built looking at the sea. Mundaka is a pleasant, quite, seaside town located on the left bank estuary which bears the same name. It has always been closely associated with the sea. For centuries its people have played leading roles in the Basque Country’s history of sailing and fishing, and even today the town maintains strong links with the neighbouring Bay of Biscay. Located in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, an area of privilege natural surroundings, Mundaka has managed to maintain its culture, its traditions and its language: the “Euskera” (Basque). It has an all around heritage for friends and visitors to enjoy and share.

In 1984 Urdaibai was designated a World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. Situated in a haven of the Bay of Biscay, its flora and fauna make it a unique area which enjoys a mild, humid, maritime climate. Urdaibai has four particular areas of interest; its wetlands close to the Mundaka estuary; the Bay of Biscay holm oak groves; the coastline and the Atlantic landscape. The best views of the estuary are to be had either from the top of Ogono Rock, the top of the mountain where the Hermita de San Pedro is located or from the Portuondo viewpoint and the area of the Chapel of Santa Katalina, that perches from the peninsula of the same name. From there, you can spot from sea level the Cape of Ogono and the island of Izaro, stading out against the beautiful landscape. Built between gothic and renaissance time the chapel dates from the 16th century.

From its artistic heritage, it is worth mention, along with the Santa Katalina Chapel, the Parish Church, which is present in many photos of the break. Its construction dates back the 11th century and it is a Renaissance building that sticks out a considerably hight over its vantage point. Its back and side yards is where the Billabong Pro Mundaka event’s site is built every year. We must not forget the unusual building of the “Sociedad Fraternidad Mundaquesa” (The Mundaka Brotherhood Society), for many simply “The Casino”, place of excellent meals and friendly service for many of the Top 45 dining nights. The Town House and the Plaza also stands out with its majestic grandeur, venue of music and Basque culture festivals.

During the event the streets of Mundaka are filled with people, from local and abroad, old and young, all after a glimpse of professional surfing’s finest in Europe’s prime left-hand point and a piece of entertainment at the many local bars.

Around Mundaka one can make trips to nearby areas and towns of great tourist interest. Only a few kilometres away is the fishing port of Bermeo, whose old quarter houses a range of monuments of historic and artistic appeal. Further down the coast is Bakio, another site for the Billabong Pro. On its way you can get a truly impressive view of the chapel of San Juan the Gaztelugatxe, built high up in a tiny island around the year 1000. It is connected to the mainland by means of a bridge. To climb the 300 plus steps of its access stairway, ring the bell of the chapel and to make a wish with the incredible views around you is an experience in its own! Gaztelugatxe simulates a castle in the water and in ancient times was called “Gaztelu-Aitz (the hill with the castle). Engulfed in myths and legends, because of its strategic location as a desired possession for important leaders, pirates and corsairs throughout the centuries. There is a legend about Gaztelugatxe that one day St. John, after landing in Bermeo, reached the chapel in three strides, leaving its footmarks on the way. As the traditional route became abandoned, these footsteps were lost and later found again in 1981, placed now on the last step of the chapel.

Gernika is another town very close to Mundaka. This year is the theme of a photo exposition on the “Museo Vasco”, at the Casco Viejo, in Bilbao, relating to the bombing of the town by the Germans during II World War. Picasso’s famous black and white painting, “Gernika” remind us all of the pain and suffering experience by its residents during the unfair massacre. Museums and old churches are part of the vast variety of places to visit in Gernika, along with eclectic restaurants with fine cuisine.

Talking about “haut-cusine”, it’s good to mention that the Basque Country has the biggest ratio of gourmet restaurants per inhabitants, even higher than France. Crossing to the other side of the river, you can have one of the most fascinating gastronomic experiences, dinning and overnight at the “Castillo de Arteaga”, located in the town of the same name. The Strong-House of Gautegiz, built in the 8th century, and the Arteaga, constructed two centuries later in a location of rich surroundings, fertile marshland, small port with a salt dock, the holm oaks of “Erenozar” and “Arrola”, the jasper stone quarry, mills and ironworks that dominated the area until the 19th century. Set in the middle of the country side and near the “ria”, they had their own tower-fort, which was the most powerful of the lords. In 2003 was recuperated and transformed in a 14 bedrooms of 5 star accomodation and a excellent gourmet restaurant, under the command of the lovely Garby and her family.

Don’t miss out on ordering local delicacies such as “Pimientos Verdes” (green peppers fried in olive oil and salt), “Arroz Caldoso de Chipirones” (calamari in juicy rice), “Setas a La Plancha” (local mushrooms grilled in olive oil). For mains, you can’ go wrong with “Luvina a la Plancha” (grilled snook) and “Solomillo”, a tender steak prepared Basque way to the best! To go along, a “Botela of Rioja” (bottle of red wine from the Rioja region), either a Gran Reserva Todonia, Vina Arana or Ardanza. To top it off, many options will satisfy even the most demanding desert expert, but I guarantee you’ll have the best Cheese Cake in the world if you order the local “Tarta de Queso!” at the Casino!

Well worth a visit as havens of tranquillity are the beaches of Laga (where you can find in the only restaurant a hot chocolate second to none!) and Laida and the small town of Elantxobe, a fishing village built “hanging off unstable cliffs, with its double walls port alluring at the bottom of the hills.

I highly recommend also the climbing of the Ogono Rock and the Mountain of the “Hermita de San Pedro. With breathtaking views of the Urdaibai reserve and the many towns in the area, Mundaka, Bermeo and Izaro island included.

If you have spare time, you can drive to Bilbao, Sopelana, Getxo and Portugalete for some more sensational experiences in this region! From the guts of the “Casco Viejo” the old part of Bilbao, to the modern cultural area of Guggenheim Museum and the “Palacio de Espetaculos, From “Arenas” to “Porto Viejo” to the “Puente Bizkaia” area, is one incredible place after the other.

I guess I could keep writing about the beauties of the Basque Country, but I believe that the main factor that bonds us together with this blessed area of the world is its people! They know how to make us feel welcome and treat us like a member of their family. From the Pukas family in Zarautz, to Jon and Lady Cruzita at Hotel el Puerto, Tere and Giuseppe from Txopes bar, the owners of the other hotels, restaurants and bar around town, the members of the Mundaka Surf Club and the Basque Surf Federation, Eider, Miguel, family and friends in Mundaka, Bakio and Sopelana area, they are always hosting us with their hearts and we are very thankful for that.

If you want a place to enjoy life, culture, history and tradition, dipped in amazing scenery, don’t think twice: Come to the Beauty of the Basque Country.

Renato Hickel
Foster's ASP World Tour Manager